A popular spot for refined-Peruvian food opens in Berkeley

A popular spot for refined Peruvian cuisine in El Cerrito has expanded to Berkeley s Gilman District El Mono opened its second location this May at Fourth St in the former space of the Gilman Grill and featuring a large outdoor patio The restaurant is still waiting on its rotisserie-chicken cooker and alcohol license but otherwise is open and serving its menu of creative comforting Peruvian dishes Fans of Peru s food must ask Are the sauces used to tie so countless things together typically creamy concoctions made with rocoto pepper or aji amarillo chili any good Thankfully El Mono has several of the best in the area whether you want spiciness to kick up roasted poultry or unctuousness to meld boiled potatoes together Pick specific up for your home fridge they re only a buck a pop The pollo a la brasa at El Mono s original location is the perfect combo of smoky and tangy It s marinated in lime juice and a variety of herbs before hitting the flames place it so the juices trickle down onto yuca fries for a real treat for half Until that chicken cooker arrives patrons in Berkeley might try selected of the seafood-forward plates The pescado a lo macho is as fun to gawk at as it is to eat A whole head-on seabass fried until crisp and served atop a chili-spiked seafood stew with shellfish and jasmine rice - Its twin the Super Mariscos is even more startling being a deep-fried whole fish sitting on a mountain of Peruvian paella that audibly sizzles when served - There are a variety of dishes that incorporate shrimp from a bright ceviche with sweet potatoes and toasted corn to chupe de camarones shrimp chowder with aji panca chili and a poached egg There s Peruvian fried rice with steak too and a fleet of sides like refried beans quinoa and fried plantains For dessert there s ice cream made with the Amazonian fruit lucuma and crema volteada a Peruvian flan mixed with pisco and drizzled with chili-wine sauce El Mono s owners used to run a sort of wine bar and once that license arrives the menu offers helpful suggestions for pairings For now try a Miti Miti a half-and-half pour of homemade purple-corn and maracuya beverages that separate like a beautiful sunset Details Open noon- p m Monday-Saturday and noon- p m Sunday at Fourth St Berkeley https elmonofresh com